In July 2003 I wrote an article for Northeast magazine about Absinthe. I got a bit of flack from the public because at that time Absinthe was illegal in the United States. At the time it was still legal in England, Spain and Czechoslovakia, but there were various ways to obtain it in the States via the internet, and through Canada.

It’s a moot point now. Since 2008 Absinthe has now legal status in the States.

Five years ago, I would never have believed my eyes. Here, at West Hartford’s West Side Wines was a presentation of four fine Absinthes from Switzerland and France, with the required paraphernalia to serve it.

An urn drips iced water into glasses of Absinthe until it clouds, forming the famous ‘louche’. For those who like it, there are perforated spoons to hold sugar cubes used to add sweetness to counter the sometimes bitter nature of the herb Wormwood, an integral part of true Absinthe. On a nearby table classic Sazerac cocktails, made with absinthe, straight Rye Whiskey, Peychaud and Angostura Bitters and a lemon twist, are being mixed and served.

Michael Meyers of the Opici Wine Company conducted this excellent tasting. He was a mine of absinthe information.

The Absinthes

The first served was a ‘blanche’ absinthe from an old family producer from Switzerland. Kubler made absinthe from 1863 until it was banned in 1910, and has now continued production since it became legal in June 2007. Kubler’s Absinthe Superiere is clear, louching to a milky opalescence. Light and smoky, it has a turgid light sweetness on the finish.

Mansithe, commissioned by the Goth rock star Marilyn Manson, an Absinthe enthusiast has a light blue green louche. It’s made by one of the top Absinthe producers in Switzerland, Matter-Luginbuhl. It has a clear clean sharpness countered by a wonderful delicate earthyness.

The Emile Pernot “Vieux Pontarlier” from France is exquisite. The aromas evolve in the glass presenting layers of liquorice and fennel herbyness. Very complex with a biting anise finish. It was my second favourite.

My favourite was the Duplais Verte from Switzerland. This one differed from the others we tasted as it uses neutral grain spirit instead of grape based spirits. Perhaps this allowed the subtle herbal characteristics to shine through. It is delicately complex with an almost fruity overtone, and was the most rounded Absinthe offered.

There are several American Absinthe being made, and there is a rumour that there will soon be an Absinthe made in Connecticut. I’ll keep you posted.

Read my original story “Absinthe - Searching For The Green Fairy” in Hartford Courant’s Northeast Magazine in July 2003