A Wine Blog

A Toast To Absent Friends

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 19:09:07 -0400

This is a difficult blog to write.
This past year several friends that have in different ways been a part of our tasting group, and an exuberant friend who organised a recent tastings for our group, have passed.

Beth Murtha Paradis was a remarkable lady. She was special, and a gifted taster. A few years back she joined our tasting group to gain wine tasting experience for a possible career in wine. I particular remember a tasting we attended together on Bersano’s Piemonte wines in New Haven. She was a natural, and even though later she decided on other avenues, the group remember her enthusiasm and focus as she developed her tasting skills.

With her French roots, and larger-than-life presence, Edith Rotival had an extraordinary enthusiasm for life, and relished a good glass of French wine, particularly if it was Burgundy. Our tasting group would always look forward to visiting the charming house in Woodstock, where she and her husband Sandy, an esteemed and staunch member of Burgundy’s La Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, would put on some of the most lively tastings we experienced. She died after a short illness and will be sorely missed.

The iconic Cy Harvey, also from Woodstock, was a casual member of the group and considered joining at one time. He only came along a couple of times with his wife Rebecca. He was always looking for claret bargains - Bordeaux Second Growths were of particular interest. I’ll remember a memorable bottle of Clos du Marquis, the second label to Leoville Las Cases, we savoured on one occasion.

Lastly, and most recently, there’s Dellie Rex. Dellie was an adjunct professor of Wine Appreciation at Boston University for many years, and latterly she taught at the New England Culinary Institute. Her classic and comprehensive wine education book ‘About Wine’ co-written with J.Patrick Henderson had just entered it’s second printing. Dellie had organised an excellent tasting of French wines for our wine group at Linda Clement Fisher and Ed Clement’s house in Thompson late last year, and we were looking forward to other such gatherings with her.
But I first met Dellie when I first began writing for the New England Wine Gazette a good ten years previously. In Boston she invited me to a scintillating lecture on Oregon pinot noir. Her enthusiastic delivery was my first real understanding of Oregon wines and I still refer to the tasting notes from that enlightening seminar.

So, for a special tasting for the group, tentatively set for the evening of Thursday 22nd December, I’ll be opening four wines from my cellar in memory of Beth (1999 Bersano Pomona Barbera), Edith (1996 Comtes Lafon Monthlie 1er Cru, Les Duresses Burgundy), Cy (2000 Clos Du Marquis, Bordeaux) and Dellie (1999 Rex Hill Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley).
As well as the tasting group, this tasting will be open to anyone who would like to celebrate our four friends. I also invite you to bring along your own wine to remember them.

Momento Mori

On a (perhaps) lighter note I guess you could all start thinking about, and make suggestions about, a wine from my cellar you’d like to be toasted with!

Some Not-So Bordeaux-like Blends from Washington State

Sun, 12 Jun 2011 15:46:59 -0400

There’s no denying that great wines are coming out of Washington State. In the rain shadow of the cascade Mountains and along the Columbia valley are a number of wine appellations making first class wines. All rely heavily on irrigation from the mighty Columbia River and it’s tributaries.
The Chateys decided on a tasting of meritage style wines - blends of grape types not necessarily employing the Bordeaux model.

***1 - 2007 40 Nights, Red Wine - well balanced with pure and extremely yummy creamy fruit. A little heat due to the highish alcohol. Easy going. Not much to not like about this wine for the price. It’s far too cheap at $10.

****2 - 2008 Corvidae, Rook, Columbia Valley - a Merlot Syrah blend with just a tad Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep colour. Soft cassis and plummy mouthful with a subtle velvety finish. Someone, I think it was Paul W, commented that “this is far too easy to drink in front of a camp fire because you will just keep on drinking and drinking this!” (He’s planning a cross country camping trip and looking for wines to take.) An excellent deal at $13.99

**3 - 2008 Angel Vine, Primitivo, Columbia Valley - 15 % alcohol! John S picked up a bright zesty nose full of raspberry and cherry fruit. Very ripe. I found this a little sweet - the high alcohol content probably added to this perception. From an anonymous taster - and perhaps the quote of the night?-”I’m picking up Zin on this Primitivo!” - $19.99

**4 - 2008 Angel Vine, The Hellion, Columbia Valley -Zinfandel/Petit Sirah blend - light delicate nose. Closed. But this is quite the mouthful. Richard C found the hot finish a little distracting. I would suggest this needs extra maturation in the bottle. - $21.99 (135 cases?)

*****5 - 2007 Hedges, Red Mountain. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah,- Hedges flagship red. Delicate, enticing complex nose. Cherry and cassis. Rounded full bodied with a good acidic backbone. Creamy (there’s that word again!) and complex. Several in the group likened this to a top class Pomerol. A classic wine. Richard C liked this very much. In fact it was a group favourite. Very impressive, and great for the price. - $22

***6 - 2007 Waters Interlude, Columbia Valley. Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. A true Bordeaux inspired blend. Warm spicy orange peel nose. Sharp and tight. Plenty of acidity here with several tons of bright black and red fruits. - $23.99
-
****7 - 2007 GraEagle Red Wing, Walla Walla Valley - Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sangiovese. Intriguing blend. It’s the second label for Nicolas Cole Cellars. Almost opaque. Heady black cherry, hints of liquorice. Big yet smooth with well integrated fruit. An extraordinary powerful wine for the price. - $24.99

***8 - 2007 Cadence, Coda, Red Mountain - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot - Plenty of plum and blueberry fruit with liquorice, mint and chocolate. John S picked up cedar closet on the nose. Spicy. There was a sense from the group that it was a little disjointed. Perhaps over time...?- $35

***9 - 2007 Dowsett Family, Devotion, Columbia Valley - Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, - this aint a subtle evocation of a Rhone style blend. Deep colour, bright berry, hints of black olive. Tense, intense and brooding. John S found it a little unfocussed. But this is still an impressive wine - $25

*****10 - 2008 - Ex Umbris, Columbia Valley - Syrah, - the title means ‘Out of the Shadows.’ With it’s smoky and slightly jammy toad tar profile this is certainly a pure evocation of Syrah. Seashore nose. Ripe and blousy. One of the group poetically called this “a journey of berries.” Poetic license in our group is certainly stretched after a few glasses of wine! - $29

*****11 - 2006 Col Solare Red Wine, Columbia Valley - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Cabernet Franc. A collaboration between Tuscany’s Marchesi Antinori and Washington State’s Chateau Ste. Michelle. Inky chocolate. A decidedly Italian perfumed nose. Masses of black cherry and blackberry fruit. Yet this is elegant, bright and well balanced. Soft refined tannins. - $50

**12 - 2007 Spring Valley Vineyard, Uriah, Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec - John S thought this had a “serious nose.” Paul W thought it a “little harsh and intense.” There was a general feeling that this wine was a bit rough around the edges. I actually found it seductive, complex and bright with oodles of blueberry jam and coffee overtones. $47

Halfway through the tasting Lou and Margie served Washington State Salmon Cakes with fresh Tartar Sauce accompanied by two slaws - one was a green cabbage and carrot with minced garlic, brown sugar, roasted peanut oil, cayenne pepper and cider vinegar - the other a red cabbage and slivered almonds with curry, smoked paprika, lavender simple syrup, fresh lemon juice,mayonnaise and black pepper. I unashamedly had two helpings of this delectable dish!

And to the question “is the heat of the region or area contributing to the ‘jammyness’ of these wines?”
After so many wines tasted, someone, and I can’t remember who answered philosophically “they are what they are.” Guess that just about sums it up!

A Wine Judging Marathon

Wed, 13 Apr 2011 22:24:44 -0400

In the nearly sublime setting of the Equinox resort in Manchester, Vermont, 4,235 wines in regimented blocks stood ready for tasting and testing. This event claims to be the largest wine event of this type in the country. It’s a chance for amateur wine makers to submit their wines to a group of qualified tasters. There were kit wines, and wine made from fresh grapes, and from a plethora of fruit. It is an opportunity for feedback from experts, and helpful suggestions to amateur winemakers wishing to improve their products.
Over 40 judges were present from all over the States and Canada. I calculated that I personally tasted over 400 wine over the 3 days. There was a time when there was not a white smile in the house. Purple teeth ruled, specially on Saturday afternoon when we tasted the last of the Cabernet Sauvignons and red blends!

To see the results of this mega-tasting go to
http://www.winemakermag.com/images/stories/2011winecompresults_rev6.11.11.pdf